What we print

The work

Replacement parts

The bracket, knob or clip that snapped and is not sold any more. Bring the broken one and we work from it.

Models & miniatures

Tabletop figures, display pieces and scale models, printed at the detail level the piece actually calls for.

Functional & prototype parts

Jigs, fixtures, enclosures and mounts that have to hold a load, clear a tolerance or survive a workshop.

Custom one-offs

Organisers, mounts, gifts — things that only need to exist once, sized to fit exactly where they are going.

Small production runs

Repeat parts in quantity, printed to a consistent spec with a first-article check before the run starts.

Not sure yet

Describe the outcome you need and we will tell you what the job calls for — including when printing is the wrong answer.

Materials

Pick the job, not the plastic.

Tell us what the part has to survive and we'll choose from these. Getting this wrong is the single most common reason a printed part fails in use.

PLA: Crisp detail, wide colour range, dimensionally stable. Best for display pieces and anything that lives indoors.
PETG: Tougher and far less brittle than PLA, and it shrugs off damp and sunlight. The default for parts that actually get used.
TPU (flexible): Rubber-like. Gaskets, bumpers, grips and anything that has to bend and come back.
Resin: The finest detail available here — miniatures, jewellery patterns, small precise geometry.

That is the whole range — we don't run ABS or ASA. If a part has to hold up to sustained high heat, say so on the request and we'll tell you honestly whether anything here will do it.

Detail level

Finer isn't always better.

A finer layer height means a smoother surface and a longer print — which means a higher price. For a bracket that lives inside a machine, draft is often the right answer.

Draft: 0.28 mm layers. Fast and cheap. Layer lines are clearly visible. Right for prototypes, fit checks and anything hidden from view.
Standard: 0.20 mm layers. The default, and what most jobs get. A good balance of surface quality against the hours the printer is tied up.
Fine: 0.12 mm layers. Noticeably smoother, and roughly twice the print time. Worth it on curved surfaces and anything you'll be looking at closely.
Ultra fine: 0.08 mm layers, or resin. For miniatures, jewellery patterns and small precise geometry where the detail is the whole point.

Straight answers

What does it cost?

Price comes from size, material, detail level and how many hours the machine is occupied — so we quote each job instead of publishing a rate card that would be wrong for most of them. Small parts are usually a handful of dollars. Send us the details and you'll get a real number, not a range.

How accurate is it?

On a well-tuned FDM machine, expect roughly ±0.2 mm on a well-designed part, with holes printing slightly undersize. If a dimension genuinely matters — a shaft fit, a bolt pattern — say so, and we'll allow for it or leave the feature to be drilled or reamed afterwards.

How strong is a printed part?

Stronger than most people expect along the layers, weaker across them. Which is why the orientation a part is printed in matters as much as the plastic. Tell us which way the load goes and we'll orient it accordingly, thicken the walls where it counts, or tell you plainly that this one wants to be machined or moulded.

Can you print something that gets hot?

Within limits. PETG is the most heat-tolerant thing we run and it starts to soften well below what a car interior reaches on a summer afternoon; PLA softens sooner still. We don't run ABS or ASA. So for a dashboard clip, an engine-bay bracket or anything that sits near an oven, the honest answer is usually that we're the wrong shop — and we'll say that rather than sell you a part that goes soft. Tell us where it lives on the request form and you'll get a straight answer before you pay for anything.

Can you copy a part I already have?

Usually. Bring the broken one in, or send photos from a few angles with a ruler or a coin in shot and the key measurements. Simple geometry we can model from that alone; anything organic or with fine internal detail may need the physical part in hand.

How big can you print?

Larger than a single build plate is still possible — we split the model, print it in sections and bond them. It costs more and there is a seam, so we'll tell you where it will fall before you commit.

When is 3D printing the wrong answer?

When the part needs to be genuinely load-bearing in metal, when it has to be food-safe in a dishwasher, when the tolerance is tighter than a tenth of a millimetre, or when the same part is available off the shelf for less than we could print it. We'd rather say so than take the money.

How long does a job take?

You'll have a quote within a business day. After you approve it, small parts are often finished the same week; large or detailed jobs can tie a machine up for a day or more each. The turnaround is stated on the quote before you commit, and you can check where the job stands any time with your reference number.

Ready when you are.

Describe the part, attach whatever you have, and we'll come back with a price and a timescale.

Request a print Ask first

What the shop can actually do.